Italian chic meets swedish coolness With the ITALIA YACHTS 13.98 from Flensburg to the in-water-show in Ellös.

Come with us on board the elegant performance Sailingyacht „Italiana“ for a delivery-cruise with culinary highlights, fascinating nature and unforgettable sailing moments. Enjoy italian lifestyle in the not always cold North!

Cover photo: the starting point, Marineschule Flensburg

07th of august 2015 - We say four then it gets six thirty

The sun is shining and the summer finally arrived in Flensburg. Our „Italiana“ (Italia Yachts 13,98) is waiting already half equipped in fron of the Flensburger Yacht-Service. But before it means: Open shop, tidy up desk and sort out the last bits. Not only the tourists are lured by the good weather and are in shopping mood and willing to buy.

The time is running and instead of 1pm Ute can´t leave before 2.30pm – now I just need to glue 5 board breakdowns on the motor boat, pack my bag, carry the remaining equipment on board and off we go. Since we already know with the on time leaving it never works out – we set 4pm as leaving time – but it gets 6.30pm (as foreseen) Quickly an after work and farewell drink with the collegues from the shop and off we go in shorts and t-shirt.

Flensburg Fjord

It is midsummer, 5- 6 knots wind from southeast and the Flensburg Fjord is busy with boats, tubes and water enthusiasts. We pass boats on anchor, beautiful sheltered bays and heavy hearted we pass the most beautiful anchorage spot on the Flesnburg Fjord as Sonderborg our target destination is. (Why we tell you tomorrow in our daily report)

Around 9.30pm we arrive in the city port of Sonderburg. Weg o with the bow northwards, unlike any other – alongside a small traditional boat from Kiel and received a really warm welcome. From the belly of the ship a delicious smell of bacon blow up to us and we decided to eat on board as well. We quickly got in conversation with the neighbours and were soon invited to rum and singing on board. The fatigue i sstronger so we listen in our cabin to german english interpretations of Irish folk music.

Island Aaro

8th of August - Flødeboller

Four thirty in the morning in Sonderborg: Heavy rains. Great. „Please close all the bulkheads, otherwise we will have rain pouring in.“ Said and done we carried on sleeping. Of course our companionway stayed dry. Tank god - he predicted nocturnal wind change to north happened. First time docking foresighted with the right side – check. After we got up slowly at 08.30am – is, after all, our first vacation day – the rain slowly peeled of and only a dense cloud cover prevend the acute urge to get up. Ute however is unstoppable. Her morning plan is to check out the local bakery and pastry specialties in „Lakeagehuset.dk http://Lakagehuset.dk and to buy loads of it. Ute has been looking forward to this for weeks. The bread is amazing and the addictive Flødeboller were the reason for the strict first destination target Sonderborg. New drugs on board – check.

The dim light makes it difficult to decipher the numbers oft he digital clock on the bridge – it indicates 09.10 am or 09.20am maybe even 09.30h. We quickly cast off – the only ones. The clock shows 10.00am. Clever cast off – fail.

The weather is slowly improving and it is getting a really beautiful day. After our sighting of harbour porpoise in the Flensburg Fjord, we see today again small whales shortly before and after the narrowness of Årø at the way out of Haderslev Fjord (here are always whales). In addition, we see again more in Middelfahrt, which we reach after a stunning ride with 7-8kn NNW through the Danish South See and the Little Belt. We rolled up and in again several times. Today we are lucky as well with the tide and we drive with more than 10knots under the two bridges. First cargo ship left behind – check. The extra speed and thus distance we decide to go further to Bogense. In the narrow channel oft he fishing harbour, we practice a Chicago-turn and dock alongside a steel clipper. Then, after opening the backstay we definetly have all the attention on our side.

A perfect dished cockpit table is waiting for us with a super noodles red sauce dinner (boiled Arabiata by Ute) in bright sunshine and summer feeling port.

Island Faeno

9th of August 15 - Bogense - Grenå The early bird..

We are early awake – no wonder if you fall exhausted into bed after the flag-raising ceremony. On the rail, mooring lines and the raised bathing platform are sitting around 1000 swallows and are entertaining themselves. The neighbour boats are crowded as well. We have never seen so many unbashful swallows on a pile. Quietly without engine, we draw us tot he gas station and fill up all our supplies (diesel tank & water tanks 1 & 2!). After this early morning work, we even save a space for our shoreporwer cable in the current colum. With fresh coffee in the cockpit we observe the slow awakening of the port community and enjoy the atmosphere.

The weather forecast is accurate – at night the wind from north turned to south-southeast wind and is now just blowing with 6 knots, unfortunately not enough for sailing. We leave Bogense quickly behind us and we drive through the danish island world. Encouraged by playing porpoises we decide to do a little bathing stop. The water is delightfully pleasant with 18,4 degrees and the warm shower on the lowered bathing platform after the swimming is just awesome.

Island Endelave

Now it´s almost 9:00 am and therefore time for breakfast. With fresh fruit salad, danish joghurt and muesli, we pass Samsø, Tunø, Endelave and Co. On the horizon we see a white dot appearing – and yes, of course we all suspect that the flying something will pass us incredibly quickly. We are in Åhus bay – just before Ebeltoft which ist he „High Speed Ferry area“....

Island Samso

The wind or better said the light breeze still doesn´t allow that we pull up the sails so that we are comfortably moving forward closer to our 60 mile target for today. So Ute runs the autopilot with the engine and Hans is enjoying his favourite hobby. He optimizes the ship and tinkers. In the locker and the magic bag he finds anchor fiings with Dyneema slings, tackline from an old sheet, gennaker strop from Dyneema and then we even find a rubber rope, so I can tie up the blocks for the gennaker sheet.

All this is a sign for the wind to pick up to 11 knots. There is no stop – quickly we pull the blue Italia Yachts flag down, the FYS flag to the side and then we get the gennaker on deck. We do a short briefing who uses how many hands for which manouver (one steers, one stands with his foot on the sheet so it doesn´t escape and pulls the halyard, the other adjust the tackline, pulls the gennaker up and takes over the sheet) all said & done– off we go. The milestone is coming quickly closer and we have to make up an idea how we will put the white big dry into the bag again.

We arrive in Grenå and the „Italiana“ produces again attention. Reverse, aft spring,stop. With our arriving beer we accept the compliments for a very elegant, detailed ship.

”Anholt” ferry - offshore wind farm

10th of August Grenå - Caribbean in Kattegat

A beautiful morning greets us, and oops, most of our neighbours are already gone – probably heading south. The „Copper Spring“ removed, let´s start into holiday direction Windpark. One of our islands is waiting.

2 nm infront of the harbour, just in sight Grenås „Kattegatcentret“ http://www.kattegatcentret.dk/de the Danish marine aquarium the Baltic Sea Research Institute, we see loads of porpoises. Almost needless to say that we see later more whales in front of the sandy flat beaches of Anholt.

After an extensive swimming lap behind the open stern of our „Italiana“ we have a nice breakfast and we are counting the standing wind turbines of the wind farm. https://de.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Offshore-Windpark_Anholt .(7!)

We have reached the first stopover of our journey. An late evening arrival a day earlier could have been possible but we didn´t want to exaggerate. Now we arrived, on the 4th day with two. „That´s okay“. Finally holiday. Our island Anholt has us back. This small island in the Kattegat offers nature and relaxation , white beaches and clear water , comfort and the best port cinema of all. We have the feeling that sometimes it develops its own mini high above the island, at least the weather is always good but always different then expected.

Island Anholt

We sat up, get furnished and organised, get out the crisps and open a new beer. The anchor is clear (mandatory for Anholt), the mooring lines are ready, the strategy planned. The port is busier than expected. There is exactly just one mooring bouy leftover which is at our favourite spot and we have wind from the side. Challenge accepted. Forward, back, forth, back and we are tied with the stern to the pantoon.

The Swede who has helped us with the stern line gets his can of beer and we get our first nice conversation.

We don´t know what to do first; try the fantastic beach, go to the fish market, cycle to the „Garden“ and enjoy delicious things with an ice-cold beer. So we decided to get the boat cleaned first. Get all cleaning utensils on deck, put shorts on, get the hose ready and let´s start. After a short time the „Italiana“ is shining like new – same time as we received our first visitors at our stern.

After so much work the afternoon develops as real holiday. Satu p, leaning back. Ute decides to get some movement and runs to the market garden. With freshly plucked salad and ruccola the plan is clear what we will be having for dinner: Steak of the cobb-grill, salad and Samso-potatoes. As celebreation of the day we get as dessert two Flødelboller. Now these are all gone, what a shame.

Island Anholt

11th of August Anholt - Connoisseurs know how the daily schedule for a holiday on Anholt looks like...

We woke up of the pattering rain on the deck and we are happy. As long as it is raining we can stay in bed with a clear conscience. Let's see if the weather forecast is correct – that says there will be rain until 10.30am. After the second coffee and several chapter of the book we slowly get active. It is 10.34 am and the sun is coming out. The holiday on Anholt can begin.

The cockpit get decorated with cushions, the blue Italia flag is hoisted and the FYS floor mats are draped on the bathing platform. You never know, who else will pass...

Beach of Anholt

Ute inspects the display at the fishermen and comes back with a smoked Rejern, homemade fishcakes and aioli – a typical Anhold lunch. Slowly the port cinema begins and a Comfortina 42, X-36s and norwegian Bavaria´s enter the port – all examine our „Italiana“ and some of them pass by later for a little chat. Otherwise the day proceeds exactly as such a day on Anholt just runs. Read, sit in the cockpit, swim, check out the beach and a little walk. Quickly got some fresh strawberries from the garden market and the evening ends with a nice dinner ( Pasta with mushroom sauce and filet) and an early night sleep (after all we want to dare our big crossing to Marstrand).

12th of August - Marstrand alarm clock on holiday

It´s 5.55am and the alarm clock rings. The wind forecast promises us a great sailing day. Get up, bring the rubbish out, get the Italiana sailing ready, get dressed.

The wind is blowing from northwest with gusts of 15 knots and there is still no sign of the sun. As always, you will be greeted by a short steep wave at the port entrance of Anholt and you are always happy when you past it.

Under genoa and main we are moving into the open Kattegat. Anholt gets quickly smaller and just as you can´t see it anymore the sun finds her way through the clouds.

Castle of Marstrand

We drive in a bright blue sky and sunshine direction Marstrand. The second of „our“ islands. On Marstrand we saw eachother the first time in 2001 during the IMS European championship. The maximum speed today was 10,4 kn. We constantly swop at the helm and despite the effort and fatigue we clearly have fun. After aprox. 8 hours and 67 miles we reach the lighthouse „Hätteberget“ infront of Marstrand.

After we rolled up and put away the sails we have a quick swim and have a quick shower with the cockpit shower and get shore ready – Marstrand here we come. As expected it is not that chaotic and crowded anymore and we can moore directly infront of the Wärthus. „Top Parking!“

Marstrand has like always it´s own bustling charm and we firstly watch from the cockpit. The question about dinner doesn´t arise and also we don´t need to have a look in the menu. Just as we order our legendary fish soup in the Wärtshus and ask for a cold Maristad they look at us a bit weird and told us that they don´t have Maristad anymore so the recommend us an Erisberg... also good.

13th of August Marstrand - Åstol Shopping time

Sun is shining, blue sky, almost no wind, perfect morning. But we decide to have a nice long sleep. Faboulous. After we awake our selves with coffee, we need to figure out our to do´s and plans. Arrived in Swede, there are now several things to consider:

  • Put in the next route into the navigation and calendar
  • Ute´s priority ist o visit some of the shops
  • Hans wants to visit his friend the ship chandelier on the other side
  • Traditional wrap with Räkor salad is planned for lunch
  • The lockers need an inventory
  • We need to get the salt oft he boat after our crossing
  • Visit at the fruit shop and bakery is obligatory
  • Pay harbour master with harbour fee and Marstrand fee
Marstrands Societätshuset

It turns out that the plan got changed into an office morning. After dealing with the single points we had a couple of phone calls and emailst o answer to. Plan for nothing.

Now it´s time for Ute´s shopping, which she wants to sell me as getting retail information for the shop (hahaha). Hans gets a shopping list and goes to the ferry and the fun can begin. Now as all the shopping has been done and presented it´s time to get the boat cleaned. Especially the lockers need a good clean. After the work has been done we get our lovely wrap for lunch.

We decided to leave Marstrand and cast off in the afternoon. Thanks to our planning we have a close destination: Åstol, just 3nm from the north exist of Marstrand. A nice swim with 19,6 degrees makes it perfect. Åstol is a cute, small harbour located on a small island. Everyone knows the densely built houses if you come out of Marstrand. It´s everywhere deep and really popular. We find a nice space next to a two mast boat. After a little walk around we decided to cook a lovely filet with fresh chanterelles and Ute does her homemade rhubarb crumble. We enjoy the nice afternoon in our cockpit and soon weg et a visitor „Jochen“, who is really interested in our lovely boat. He has a good look around the Italia and promises we will see us back latest on the Düsseldorf Boot boat show. After a lovely meal we say good night.

Marstrand DELTA Powerboats + Marstrand exit „north“ + Island Aastol

14th of August Åstol - Smögen

Again we wake up of the sun, as it is just 7.23h we stay a little bit longer in bed. At 8.49h Ute jumps up to run tot he other side of the port to buy fresh home made Vaniljebolle and muffins. „Emma“ is sitting on her terrace and is happy to have someone there with german punctuality who she can sell her home made baking.

After the breakfast we leave the port with 15knots wind from southeast into the archipelago. Always when it takes a bit longer for a big course change we put up the genoa and always fly through the waypoints. We discover hidden anchor bays and nice fish restaurants which you can just reach by boat but still we carry on direction to Smögen.

Island Aastol

As we arrived there we realized that the season is almost over there. Even with the beginning of the weekend there are just a few boats in the marina. We still decided to dock on the other side and moor the boat against the wind as taught from the study book. The harbor master comes out and tells us the news about the improvent and building projects on this side. Accept of four little houses you can´t see anything yet.

For the rest of the day we went swimming, observe the port and the lines as wind is forecasted for tomorrow.

Smögen

15th of August Smögen - Day in the marina

We had a really relaxed morning. We are waiting for the shopping mile to open, but Smögen offers more then typical skandinavian clothing and partying. It has a huge fish fabric and has first-class fish and shelfish to offer. For sure nothing you can get at home.

We have a little discovery walk through the port, the chandlery got bigger and built a hall. The street got bigger but it looks like the season really is finished already as there are almost no one around.

We decide to do a big shopping in the 70% discount chandlery. We buy some clothes from Holebrook/Sweden, North Sails, Sail Racing and some typical swedish food.

As the weather is quite bad, rainy and too windy to sail we decide to stay another day in the port on our Italiana. We stay the evening in the nice comfortable saloon of the IY 13.98. Good night Marie-Ann.

Hunnebostrand

16th August Smögen - Hunnebostrand - Highlight Sote channel

It is sunday and Smögen is even more quite. The harbour master told us yesterday that the marina closes today, but if we want, we can stay until monday. It is still too windy to sail but we don´t really fancy staying another day in Smöden. We agree to do a short, nice and safe trip.

Blue sky, 23kn wind from east – cast off and lets go. Goodbye Smögen, for sure we will come back. Just a little jump into the supermarket before we leave in north direction. We quickly get to the Sote-channel which is always an adventure to go through. It´s aprox. 5m deep and just 20m wide. On the right and left side you see stunning houses and cows. In the middle of the channel is a swing bridge, which you need to request normally throught VHF or signal but the bridge guardian sees us and tells us with light signals that he will open the brigde for us. We kindly say thank you to him and pass.

Sote canal

After we left the Sote channel behind us, we can see our day destination already in front of us – Hunnebostrand. Our harbour discovery walk makes us see that here the season is definetly over as well. A few shops are already closed, the others close tonight. Luckily we don´t need anything. Ute walks up the mountains and takes stunning panorama photos while Hans cleans the water line. After so much movement we decided to go and have a little swim in the bathing bay.

Hunnebostrand from top of mountain

The wind get less and the ambience almost gets romantic, our holiday almost over and Hunnebostrand will be our most northern point. These are definetly enough reasons to get out the „Brinck Emergency Kit“... We get a few cushions into the cockpit and get the yellow case with the champagne and the glasses. While we are enjoying this moment we realize again how nice Sweden is in the low season. And then the Closing party of the Season workers start. Doesn´t sound too bad – „Let´s rock party people!“

Tomorrow the crossover part starts and the forecast says it will get even more windy. Fortunately we are almost there where we want to go to.

Lysekil

17th of August- Hunnebostrand – Lysekil Welcome back

Mmmm, the morning arrived. A little breeze in the front cabin. The sun comes through the portholes, the sky is as blue as ever. It´s time too leave. Little swim before the cast off. The day seems to get perfect, but we know it better. The wind blows already with 18 knots. The holiday is over and we have to get going with the crossover to Ellös. Fortunately it´s just a few miles away. Just like yesterday we choose the protected way through the Sote channel. Always a lovely landscape. The bridge guardian recognizes us and waves us friendly. We pass Smögen again and it looks like our neighbours are still on their moorings. As closer we get to the south the wind picks up. We have 28 knots guts of wind . The trip gets difficult, but fortunately it´s not too far. Destination is Lysekil. Let´s see what´s going on in the big city. As we get around the corner we have a wind of 33 knots and we crave for a save berth. We get into a little fishing harbour where we would like to dock the „Italiana“ behind a sailing boat on the outside mole directly into the wind. A try to turn the boat, keep it on the spot and let the wind do the rest worked out with the help of the swedish family. A big „Hello“ and „Welcome, good that you are in the port now as well“ We said thank you to the Swedes we get a friendly „Welcome back“ back.

Lysekil

The wind doesnßt stop so we look for shelter in the city and even find some time for culture. The aquarium is really impressive and we learn about the fishes and stories of the king.

Lysekil (panorama) + Aquarium + Sote canal

We get back to the boat and enjoy the evening in the cockpit.

Hunnebostrand + Lysekil

18th of August Lysekil – Käringön Blue sky – red stone

The wind has dropped. Not completely but a lot. There is a breeze with 18kn, thats okay. It was enough now of Lysekil and the fishing harbour. We had a good shelter during the storm and the saw „the big city“ but now it´s time to carry on. We are getting ready to cast off.

With a blue sky we drive comfortably through the archipelago. One last destination we still have – we want to try the „Peterson Krog“ on Käringön, which everyone is raving about.

Käringön

Like everywhere in Bohuslän (the area between Göteburg and Strömstad at the border of Norway) is the season already over. Everywhere it´s scary empty and in all shops are big discounts. Like this all the ports are empty too.

The harbour walk is surprising long and nice. We find everything as well the Krog, except of a cash machine. In the supermarket a power failure occurs, the rescue crews have experience and the bakery dog can swim. We decide to discover the island and go for a little swim in the perfect 18,6 degrees water.

Suprisingly, the floating pontoon gets really busy. As we come back there are around 16 more boats at the pontoon. Oops. After a breathtaking tour we want to end our trip with a nice dinner in a restaurant and we definetly want to try the Peterson Krog www.petersonskrog.se/Petersons.html. „We open at 6pm“. We are really positive surprised about this restaurant. The food is just amazing.

19th of August Käringön – Ellös - Never, ever again...

06:28am The night is over. Directly next to us a german with Hamburg dialect shouts: I said you should fit the front line closer“. mA Cruiser 45 german production with a skipper trainigs team docks on in luv on the outside wall – heeelpp! Carried on sleeping.

07.50am Toktoktok – tok- toktoktok. The harbour master. „Hello. You know, you are always welcome, but: I WILL NEVER EVER SEE YOU DOCKING LONG SIDE THE PIER AGAIN!“ Hans a little confused, half asleep, looks right, looks left: Ehhmm sorry, but everybody is lying like we do... You should not just tell me...“ “SOMEBODY HAS STARTED THIS AND I WILL TALK TO EVERYBODY HERE!” “Ok, have fun.”

Käringön

A great morning – not! We decided to take our time this morning and enjoy the wonderful Käringön. Around midday we decide to have a little island walkaround and a swimming stop. Of course at this time of day it is completely busy with families and grandpartents. Great.

In the early afternoon we go back the the yacht with the highest mast and of course the harbour master kept is word and made everyone to dock diagonally to the pontoon– except of us. Great… That means close to us barriers infront and in the back – ok you want action – you get action. So I did a Chicago turn, forward through the buoys, stern around and go.

All day long we just see a blue clear sky – fantastic – Slowly and relaxed we drive up north, passing for the third time Gulholmen. Arm out and turn right into Ellös – Hello here we are.

In the port of the shipyard Hallberg-Rassy is a tender awaiting us already. We were welcomed friendly and they guided us through the really narrow port. The guys are all really helpful and nice and speak perfectly English. An absolut highlight docking with the help of the Hallberg guys. The most exciting manouvers in one day, that´s for sure.

After the big hello we start to pack our things together and decide to carry on tomorrow.

Ellös

20th of August Elläs (Hallberg-Rassy) Wash down

The day starts relaxing and nice. Now the wind is gone and it is really sheltered and quite here. After saying hello to a few shipyard workers we meet Stefan and ask him to get a hoover for us to get the “Italiana” cleaned. Stefan is excited about the great state of the Italia and all the little details.

In shorts and in the hot sun we do our super wash down. We put lots of shampoo on the boat and shammy everything until it sparkles. After washing, polishing, hoovering, we decorate everything for the boat show and are looking forward to the comments.

Of course, the organisator wants to park us somewhere else for almost the 36th time. Hans ignores the hectic hand moves and helps to organise the incoming boats.

We decide to end the evening in the local Krog (restaurant) “Fisksoppa” Great. A nice ending in the cockpit makes the evening perfect, although we need to be covered in anti-mosquito spray.

This is now our end of the travel diary and we hope you enjoyed it a bit and you could share with us our beautiful 2 weeks.

Swedish sker-garden

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