It started with an idea. Several months back I made a quick decision. I wanted to learn to meditate. And I chose to do this in Malaysia.
Cash is king
Day 1: Airport arrival to hotel checkin - it was a 36 hour travel "day". I was exhausted. My bank card didn't work at the airport. Getting cash was an important part of getting to my hotel and I also planned on buying a SIM. Only one of those was happening that night. Good news was I had grabbed a $50 bill on a whim just before leaving home. That turned into my exact taxi fare I needed to get to my hotel (about an hours commute). Whew. After getting to my room I solved the bank card issue. An online bank check showed my initial withdrawal that was rejected due to "insufficient funds" had actually debited my account for that amount! 40 minutes on the phone with my bank and the process to correct this was in place, and my bank limit increased.
Lesson #1: it turns out the airport taxi's didn't take credit cards. ALWAYS leave home with sufficient cash to get through any binds. (and that is more than $50!)
Day 2 (Monday): After a planning breakfast, decided to hit China Town. Took the LRT there and spent the rest of the morning and afternoon on foot. China town was pretty great.
Amazing lunch for $3: The two spots I pre-researched for lunch were nowhere to be found. There are food vendors all around, but I was compelled to walk down this one alley. Sure enough a place that was packed beckoned me in. You get a plate of rice and load it up! People here are so friendly. I had three people helping coach me on what to pick. Ate lunch with a local who ate with his hands... and was delightful to talk to. Lunch was delicious!
Great hike in a big city: The 421m Menara Tower has a jungle trail hike to get to it that is great. The sounds of the jungle were incredible and after about 15 minutes of vertical stairs, I arrived at the base of the tower.
Listening to the signs: Pre dinner - I was going to walk to the towers but decided to get a data and voice sim instead. The universe spoke to me. First two places seemed to be non existent. Google has been pretty good here but not this time. Ended up at the Celcom store and they were out if prepaid sims. Argh. They point me to a competitor and then I learn I need my passport. That's it. No connectivity on this trip. Screw it.
Back to the hotel. Shower again. Then off to find dinner and the evenings fun. So my hotel is in an awesome spot. Walking distance to blocks and blocks of nightlife.
1st stop - grilled snack. Yum. They specialized in chicken parts grilled. Liver, stomach, heart... I went for his two suggestions "breast" and "ass". Yup. That little tender tasty bit I always cherish when carving my home cooked bird! So so good!
Don't expect a happy hour cocktail to be amazing... just be satisfied if it's decent, and don't be surprised if it's not.
Finally gave into one convincing woman to enjoy a beverage at her establishment. I was ready for food and unhappy with anything I passed, so I gave into the happy hour quick beverage impulse. Not worth it. Went for the happy hour margarita. I knew better. That drink got a 2/10. And about 2 minutes of my time.
After that my destination was a jazz and blues bar I ended up on the top floor with one of the last few seats with a birds eye view. Drinks were good and the music was awesome. Stayed for the first full set and while I'd have stayed longer the air conditioning vent above me head kept both me and my drink a little too frosted!
Final stop. One of the more respectable Thai massage spots. I had a good buzz making the idea of a $20 one hour massage sound like a perfect end to my long day. My phone says I walked over 25,000 steps that day. I was ready! It was great. Back at the hotel at midnight. Another shower (you cannot have enough in this heat and humidity).
Day 3 Tuesday 6:10 am - wide awake. Get ready and head off to the Petronas towers for sunrise at 7, about a 30 minute walk. It was amazing. This is my most cherished time on vacations. Getting up with the sounds of birds and nature along with no crowds makes me happy. The park in front of the towers is huge. The towers... Awe inspiring. I actually didn't expect to feel so amazed. They are absolutely beautiful.
$1 breakfast: I was starving. A long lineup at this food stall made for an easy choice. The guy in front of me ordered 4 of the same, so I figured he's onto something and asked for that. It was rice, an egg, cucumber, fried anchovies topped off with Sambal. Yummmmm! (and yes... I actually enjoyed the anchovies that were not at all like all the one's I've wished I'd never had in my life!)
I took the LRT to meet with my food tour guide (I love TripAdvisor!) Charles over in India town. It was an incredible experience...
At night the neighborhood comes to life...
Next up - Silent Meditation
Well... it's early Wed and I need some sleep before part 2 of my adventure begins. This involves getting to a meeting point across town to catch a 9:00 am bus to my silent meditation location. I'll be off grid (literally) for 11 days.
Recommendations
Hotel: PARKROYAL Serviced Suites Kuala Lumpur: great hotel in the perfect location. Walk to the Petronas Towers, Menara KL tower, and evening entertainment district.
Cocktails: Opium restaurant: Amazing cocktails, staff, and atmosphere.
Food Tour: Charles was my food tour guide: you want him on your day 1. m: +6016 296 5790, charlesvik@gmail.com
No black tie: great jazz. Just be prepared for too much a/c... especially if on the top floor. And one minute from the Parkroyal hotel.
Must sees/dos
Patronas towers. Go for sunrise and walk through the park in front. A perfect start to any day!
Menara KL tower. Get there through the jungle hike. Dress for an inclined and hot walk.
China town. Find the wet market and walk the streets.
Get a massage. And a foot massage. And a shoulder and back massage. And do it again the next day. While I didn't have time to try it (on this trip) my guide Charles swears on the advice to seek out a blind massage. Says he switched last year, and never looked back.
Skip your hotel breakfast: even if it's included: experience what the locals eat.
Street food: I have been to no city in the world with better street food. It is truly amazing. Skip the restaurants and go for home quality cooking available pretty much everywhere. Look for the long lineups and enjoy!
Be prepared
This city is best explored on foot. Bring footwear you can walk in for 9 hours+
In rainy season when it rains it dumps. Be ready for that.
To quote my city guide Charles "always bring tissue". I'll add to also pack toilet paper (or extra tissue). It's not in every bathroom and that's not a problem you want!
Eat like the Malay, but not in shopping malls or fancy restaurants. Eat with your hands. I am told its a sign of respect for your food and thoroughly satisfying. Scoop, lift to mouth and push with the thumb :)
Smile. The locals do and it's infectious.
Amazing people. Nothing can make or break a vacation more in my opinion than the everyday hospitality of the people. Malaysia gets a 9.5/10.
Additonal posts for this adventure
Credits:
Randy Hackbart